Let’s go back in time to Kathmandu

18 06 2012

We are all being watched
Boudhanath, Kathmandu 2004

March 2004, and the end of our first trip to South Asia. We had started in Delhi, travelled around the Golden Triangle, been on a sleeper train, sailed down the Ganga to Varanasi, explored Chitwan National Park and finally arrived in legendary Kathmandu.

Mt Everest

First on our itinerary was a visit to Mt Everest/Sagarmāthā. Not by trekking but by taking a small plane along the Himalayas to view the mountain. Whilst these flights don’t have the best of safety records we would still highly recommended the experience. Neither of us expected to be quite so moved by simply looking out of the cockpit but we were. The pictures below completely fail to convey the awe and amazement we felt at the sight.

An awesome sight
Mt Everest


Central Kathmandu

The centre of Kathmandu was a mix of historic buildings and a warren of shops, both local and tourist. In the main tourist area of Thamel was a genuine North Face shop and thousands selling counterfeits. It took seconds to be offered illegal drugs, all of which we were assured were ‘legal here’. Digital cameras were still seen as novel and we had great fun with the local children taking and showing pictures. Things have moved on, and Thamel has now been declared a full Wi-fi zone.

life on the streets
Busy people

Make the sign!
Make the sign

Show the picture


Catch the pigeon
Catch the pigeon

Durbar square

Pashupatinath Temple

The Pashupatinth Temple is regarded as the most sacred among the temples of Lord Shiva but not being Hindu we could only view it from the other side of the Bagmati river. We are reliably informed that the inside is, however, gorgeous. It was near to here that we bought the ‘good quality’ bootleg CD of the trance version of Om Mani Padma Hum that was playing in every shop and restaurant in the city.

Hi Mom!
Compulsory picture on first trip


By the river

Watching the world
Across the river

Beyond Kathmandu

In addition to Kathmandu the valley contains two sister cities: Patan 5km to the south and Bhaktapur 12km to the east. We made short visits to them both. In Bhaktapur we came across a film being shot. We took pictures but did not get any details so if anyone can identify the actor below please let us know.

Monkey see
Brass monkey, Patan

you know, for puja
For Puja, Patan

Through these streets
Old Streets, Bhaktapur

What's my next line?
Who am I? Bhaktapur

Above Kathmandu

From the Monkey temple

I can see it all
From the Monkey temple

From Bhaktapur

Staying in Kathmandu

We stayed at the Shanker Hotel, just to the north east of the centre which was lovely, in a shabby-chic way, with dark carved wood in the rooms and happy, helpful staff. Since we were there it has clearly been renovated, as you can see on its website, where you now have “a chance to live like royalty at a price you cannot beat”.

For a good nights rest
Hotel Shanker

Remembrance of Kathmandu

At a workshop near to the Boudhanath stupa we bought a beautifully intricate painted Thangka. On arriving home we had it framed and it now has a central position in our kitchen/dining room.

Squares within squares
Squares within squares

The full set of Elizabeth’s Kathmandu pictures can be found here and Paul’s set here.

We have been slowly recording our 2004 Delhi to Kathmandu trip:

— words by Paul
— pictures by Paul & Elizabeth




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